Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa NE Face · trad
Via Praga updated
Note: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route) is estimated at 5a in the french quotation and the last two pitches at 6a. 5: Towards the end of the route, the quality of the granite leaves much to be desired but the protection is good. 6: There are several "windows" on the route, one of them, at stance 8 of the original 1981 climb is very conspicuous, 5m high by 3m wide. Avoid climbind it and continue on the wall itself. Good Luck
- Style
- trad
- Pitches
- 6
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Shahar Kadmiel, Joel Ettinger, 1 Jun 2004
Topo
.jpg&w=3840&q=75)
P1. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the inner corner with short keys IV. In the upper half, you can exit the couloir to the left onto simpler talus slabs. R2. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the couloir - in some places the inner corner with short keys IV. The station is in a couloir extension on a ledge. P3. 60m. 20m IV, 40m II. From the station up, a little to the right, then along a large inclined ledge, taking it…
Route pageNote: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
SW Face old Topo
MapFrom the IAC logbook, edited by Mikhail Khomenyuk
P1. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the inner corner with short keys IV. In the upper half, you can exit the couloir to the left onto simpler talus slabs. R2. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the couloir - in some places the inner corner with short keys IV. The station is in a couloir extension on a ledge. P3. 60m. 20m IV, 40m II. From the station up, a little to the right, then along a large inclined ledge, taking it…
Route pageNote: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
A long and moderately difficult line to the main wall of the district. Estimated difficulty 4B. P1. 150m. II. On the inclined slabs of the right part of the blotch straight up (zigzags along the relief) towards the visible system of cracks in the upper right part of the "Mask". Station on rich terrain before the start of a steeper section. P2. 60m. IV, III. Up, through large caverns to the begin…
Route pageNote: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
P1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar. P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towar…
Route pageOlder Topo of NW Face
MapFrom israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)
A long and moderately difficult line to the main wall of the district. Estimated difficulty 4B. P1. 150m. II. On the inclined slabs of the right part of the blotch straight up (zigzags along the relief) towards the visible system of cracks in the upper right part of the "Mask". Station on rich terrain before the start of a steeper section. P2. 60m. IV, III. Up, through large caverns to the begin…
Route pageNote: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
P1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar. P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towar…
Route pagenone
Route page
Comments
No comments yet. Climbed it? Share conditions, beta or the state of the bolts.