Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa West Face · trad
Via Praga
6aP1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar. P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towards prominent angle/openbook for around 30m. P7(V+, bad rock) Climb the openbook which gets overhanging and has frail rock towards the top and good belay P8 From here over slab and and the following chimney behind detached Pillar through manhole from left to right and up to chockstone. Climb onto this chockstone (5) and always along the right side of the detached Pillar to "window" at belay number 8 P9 further 3m to the left over step and diagonal towards the right to the bottom of the summit gully(IV+,30m) to the belay. P10 Partly through this gully, partly through the chimney on its L side onto the detached Pillar and then back onto main Pillar by a bold rockover move (5) then traversing around it to back to the right towards the gully (30m) to belay. P11 Climb on through gully around block then along hand crack (V+) turning into ledge higher up and to good belay(30m) P12 From ledge left onto arete and along that one 10m up (V+) then traverse R into openbook and crack and 25m up inside it (5) until summit plateau of this section of the mountain. Translated by Timo [logbook]
Approach
Approach through chimney left of the arete of the Pillar that leads diagonal left through the entire SW face of the mountain.
Descent
Then if desired walk to summit and descent via main descent path
- Grade
- 6a
- First ascent grade
- V+
- Style
- trad
- Pitches
- 12
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- J. Kotrei, Z. Lukes, 18 Sep 1981
Topo
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P1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar. P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towar…
SW Face old Topo
MapFrom the IAC logbook, edited by Mikhail Khomenyuk
P1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar. P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towar…
A long and moderately difficult line to the main wall of the district. Estimated difficulty 4B. P1. 150m. II. On the inclined slabs of the right part of the blotch straight up (zigzags along the relief) towards the visible system of cracks in the upper right part of the "Mask". Station on rich terrain before the start of a steeper section. P2. 60m. IV, III. Up, through large caverns to the begin…
Route pageNote: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
Route pageP1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar. P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towar…
Older Topo of NW Face
MapFrom israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)
A long and moderately difficult line to the main wall of the district. Estimated difficulty 4B. P1. 150m. II. On the inclined slabs of the right part of the blotch straight up (zigzags along the relief) towards the visible system of cracks in the upper right part of the "Mask". Station on rich terrain before the start of a steeper section. P2. 60m. IV, III. Up, through large caverns to the begin…
Route pageNote: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
Route pageP1(4) Up chimney and through overhang (4) and afterwards easier to first Belay P2 leave the chimney here and head onto easier terrain to it's right onto the Pillar. P3,4,5 follow along the Pillar for 3 pitches (II-3) until prominent grassy ledge under the jagged wall. Simul-walking across this ledge to belay below the wall at its top. and 5th belay P6 Through ledgy and pocketed wall climb towar…
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Route page
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