Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa West Face · trad
Kombination Mishanya
5aP1. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the inner corner with short keys IV. In the upper half, you can exit the couloir to the left onto simpler talus slabs. R2. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the couloir - in some places the inner corner with short keys IV. The station is in a couloir extension on a ledge. P3. 60m. 20m IV, 40m II. From the station up, a little to the right, then along a large inclined ledge, taking it to the left. P4. 40m II. Up to the left, bypassing the buttress on the left. P5. 50m III, IV. Up the slabs with a cheese-like relief. The station is in the couloir, at the base of the inner corner. P6. 60m III, IV, II. The first 25 meters up the inner corner, before leaving the corner, taking it to the left wall. Further, the obvious path to the left up to a large ledge. P7. 300m II. Gardens to the right to the ridge and further along the ridge to the right to the top. Possibly without insurance. [Misha]
Approach
Up the Wadi Shrei gorge, before the start of flattening. The beginning of the route should be searched on the left side immediately after the start of flattening. Start along a clear, long, straight couloir - the inner corner. [Misha]
Descent
from the top, return to the shoulder with two wooden pillars, and then descend to the north to a wide saddle. From the saddle to the right to the monastery. Bypass the monastery on the right, and further along the paved path towards Mount Moses.[Misha]
- Grade
- 5a
- First ascent grade
- IV
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 600 m
- Pitches
- 7
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Mikhail Khomenyuk, Anna Pushkina, 28 May 2016
Topo
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P1. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the inner corner with short keys IV. In the upper half, you can exit the couloir to the left onto simpler talus slabs. R2. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the couloir - in some places the inner corner with short keys IV. The station is in a couloir extension on a ledge. P3. 60m. 20m IV, 40m II. From the station up, a little to the right, then along a large inclined ledge, taking it…
Note: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
Route pageSW Face old Topo
MapFrom the IAC logbook, edited by Mikhail Khomenyuk
P1. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the inner corner with short keys IV. In the upper half, you can exit the couloir to the left onto simpler talus slabs. R2. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the couloir - in some places the inner corner with short keys IV. The station is in a couloir extension on a ledge. P3. 60m. 20m IV, 40m II. From the station up, a little to the right, then along a large inclined ledge, taking it…
Note: 1. The original Topo is correct, but: 2: The 1/6/2004 repetition was done in 6 pitches rather than 12p in 1981. 3: The route marked on the original photo is erroneus, correct line is now marked as a dashed instead of dotted line (see picture) 4: The difficulty is underestimated in comparison to the standard Sinai grading; thus the flared bridging move (about 25m above the base of the route…
Route page
P1. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the inner corner with short keys IV. In the upper half, you can exit the couloir to the left onto simpler talus slabs. R2. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the couloir - in some places the inner corner with short keys IV. The station is in a couloir extension on a ledge. P3. 60m. 20m IV, 40m II. From the station up, a little to the right, then along a large inclined ledge, taking it…
Good rock. Start at base of conspicuous spur at left limit of central buttress. 2pitches of IV, then 3 pitches II on slabs. Turn right to wall (4 pitches IV-V), up to stance at edge of first summit, circumvented left (III). From here 2 pitches of II to the Safsafa cross
Route pageOlder Topo of NW Face
MapFrom israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)
P1. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the inner corner with short keys IV. In the upper half, you can exit the couloir to the left onto simpler talus slabs. R2. 60m. II, III, IV. Up the couloir - in some places the inner corner with short keys IV. The station is in a couloir extension on a ledge. P3. 60m. 20m IV, 40m II. From the station up, a little to the right, then along a large inclined ledge, taking it…
Good rock. Start at base of conspicuous spur at left limit of central buttress. 2pitches of IV, then 3 pitches II on slabs. Turn right to wall (4 pitches IV-V), up to stance at edge of first summit, circumvented left (III). From here 2 pitches of II to the Safsafa cross
Route page
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