Jebel Fara · Fara NW corner · trad
Puggie with Aids
6aPitch1: 25m 5.6. Start slightly left of the corner and follow the line of the corner to a short lay-back and huge ledge. Pitch2: 28m, 5.8+. From the right end of the ledge traverse right (then) for 12m. Follow a sloping shallow ramp line, diagonally right to a small cave on the right corner of the face. Problematic protection Pitch3: 30m, 5.7. Traverse 4m left from the cave, up 2m and back to above the cave. Move up 4m using a detached block, then 5m left . Up to a large ledge. Walk left to belay at the base of a huge flake. Pitch4: 30m, 5.9(one move). Start from left of the flake and follow a shallow fissure to a large block. Continue up the wides crack (cru10) to a ledge. Follow a ramp up diagonally right to a large boulder and ledge. Scramble 80m up diagonally to the top.
Approach
Start at the foot of a huge sloping corner 100m right of “Pharaoh’s chimney”.
- Grade
- 6a
- First ascent grade
- V+, 5.9
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 110 m
- Pitches
- 4
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Adrian Hill, Alon Parnes, 26 Mar 1988
Topo
Max: (Gaby Manobla). A nice and exposed version of “Sac Qemakh”. From first stance of regular route up a crack leading to right lower corner of Big Flake, then right side of flake (beware of loose rock), (V+), reasonably well protected, to join a point on a regular route right and below stance 3. Moritz: (Amnon Shilon1). Start about 45m below Big Flake, that is left of regular start point. Climb…
Route pageNice warm up route. Travel time is about three hours. Illuminated by the sun from half past nine in the morning, which is very important in winter. P1: 45 m. to IV. Left up the inner corner to a large shelf. (You can make a station here). Further left into the fireplace between the main wall and the leaning column. Further up the crack. The station is two meters to the left of the main traffic li…
Route pageGreat trail for beginners. Uncomplicated and pretty. P1. 25m. III. Through a simple wide fireplace (70°) access to the first large ledge. Here is a convenient station at its points. R2. 30m. IV-. Up the right side of the fireplace. Convenient station on a ledge. P3. 30m. II. On foot along the fireplace, crawl under the wedged stone, and then on foot to the base of the characteristic inner corne…
Route pagePitch1: 25m 5.6. Start slightly left of the corner and follow the line of the corner to a short lay-back and huge ledge. Pitch2: 28m, 5.8+. From the right end of the ledge traverse right (then) for 12m. Follow a sloping shallow ramp line, diagonally right to a small cave on the right corner of the face. Problematic protection Pitch3: 30m, 5.7. Traverse 4m left from the cave, up 2m and back to ab…
NW Corner Topo from Wiki
MapMax: (Gaby Manobla). A nice and exposed version of “Sac Qemakh”. From first stance of regular route up a crack leading to right lower corner of Big Flake, then right side of flake (beware of loose rock), (V+), reasonably well protected, to join a point on a regular route right and below stance 3. Moritz: (Amnon Shilon1). Start about 45m below Big Flake, that is left of regular start point. Climb…
Route pageNice warm up route. Travel time is about three hours. Illuminated by the sun from half past nine in the morning, which is very important in winter. P1: 45 m. to IV. Left up the inner corner to a large shelf. (You can make a station here). Further left into the fireplace between the main wall and the leaning column. Further up the crack. The station is two meters to the left of the main traffic li…
Route pageGreat trail for beginners. Uncomplicated and pretty. P1. 25m. III. Through a simple wide fireplace (70°) access to the first large ledge. Here is a convenient station at its points. R2. 30m. IV-. Up the right side of the fireplace. Convenient station on a ledge. P3. 30m. II. On foot along the fireplace, crawl under the wedged stone, and then on foot to the base of the characteristic inner corne…
Route pagePitch1: 25m 5.6. Start slightly left of the corner and follow the line of the corner to a short lay-back and huge ledge. Pitch2: 28m, 5.8+. From the right end of the ledge traverse right (then) for 12m. Follow a sloping shallow ramp line, diagonally right to a small cave on the right corner of the face. Problematic protection Pitch3: 30m, 5.7. Traverse 4m left from the cave, up 2m and back to ab…
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