Jebel Fara · Fara NW corner · trad

Big Eyes

Nice warm up route. Travel time is about three hours. Illuminated by the sun from half past nine in the morning, which is very important in winter. P1: 45 m. to IV. Left up the inner corner to a large shelf. (You can make a station here). Further left into the fireplace between the main wall and the leaning column. Further up the crack. The station is two meters to the left of the main traffic line, coincides with the first station of the "Northern Corner" route. Spacious comfortable balcony. Station on bookmarks and friends. In the original version, the station is placed at the base of a vertical crack, but in this case the shelf under the station is rather tight, and the leader climbs directly above the belayer, which is not entirely safe. We made the station 10 meters earlier, which turned out to be quite convenient. P2: 30m. V. Right up the shelves to the base of the vertical crack. Up the crack - the inner corner to a large terrace. The crack seems scary at first glance, but in fact it climbs easily. Reliable insurance on friends is easily organized. The station is on a ledge in the upper right corner of the terrace. P3: 40m. V-. To the left up to the inner corner and further along the inner corner with a crack. Coincides with the last pitch of the North Corner route. Reliable insurance is easily organized. Station on a ledge. since the F1 and F2 routes have a common first station, a common penultimate station and a common last pitch, these routes can be combined according to the requests of the participants. If you go P1 along F1, and P2 along F2, and even approach the route directly along the slabs of 90 meters III, in places IV-, then you get a good 4A. And if you go P1 along F2, and then everything along F1, you get a short warm-up route of about 2B. [Misha] Pitch1: IV-. Go diagonally for about 20m left to good balcony/ledge below two obvious cracks. Left crack attempted and ???. Pitch2: IV. Walk 3m to left edge of balcony. Up chimney between main wall and large Pillar and slightly to right. Short traverse right to base of vertical crack, under flake. Pitch3: V. Up crack to terrace, 25m, good protection by hexes size 8,9,10 and friends. Pitch4: V- Same as “North corner”. Thin delicate crack.