Jebel El Deir · Deir SW faces · trad

Slot machine

6b+

1) 20m, 4c. The route starts as it means to go on. Thrutch and smear to flakes 2) 45m, 5a. Interesting and varied climbing, culminatinating in a fine belay platform. The final and clearly gruelling offwidth which gives the route its…. 3) 8m, 5b. Guess what? You guessed right. (small cams and a monster if you….

Approach

A continuous and straight crack, finishing up a square cut L face…….

Grade
6b+
First ascent grade
HVS 4c, 5a, 5b
Style
trad
Length
73 m
Pitches
3
Bolts
0
First ascent
Martin Kocsis, Anita Grey, Oct 2007

Topo

Topo: NW Spur
1Deir NW Atrad · 35 m6c

Three routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.

Route page
1Slot machinetrad · 73 m6b+

1) 20m, 4c. The route starts as it means to go on. Thrutch and smear to flakes 2) 45m, 5a. Interesting and varied climbing, culminatinating in a fine belay platform. The final and clearly gruelling offwidth which gives the route its…. 3) 8m, 5b. Guess what? You guessed right. (small cams and a monster if you….

1deir NW spur unnamed 1trad–
Route page
1Camel lottrad · 305 m4c

1) 50m, 4b. General left to right diagnol of slab. Shallow crack at bottom left of Buttress. Go straight up for 30m then trend right to belay on the overlap. 2) 50m, 4a. Traverse right past overlap then up and left to crack line. Follow crack line to belay. 3) 50m, 4b. Traverse up and right to crack overlap. Surmount crack then traverse up and right to scoop then crack line and small dyke. Bela…

Route page

NW Spur

Map
  1. Three routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.

    Route page
  2. 1) 20m, 4c. The route starts as it means to go on. Thrutch and smear to flakes 2) 45m, 5a. Interesting and varied climbing, culminatinating in a fine belay platform. The final and clearly gruelling offwidth which gives the route its…. 3) 8m, 5b. Guess what? You guessed right. (small cams and a monster if you….

  3. 1) 50m, 4b. General left to right diagnol of slab. Shallow crack at bottom left of Buttress. Go straight up for 30m then trend right to belay on the overlap. 2) 50m, 4a. Traverse right past overlap then up and left to crack line. Follow crack line to belay. 3) 50m, 4b. Traverse up and right to crack overlap. Surmount crack then traverse up and right to scoop then crack line and small dyke. Bela…

    Route page

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