Jebel El Deir · Deir SW faces · trad
Camel lot
4c1) 50m, 4b. General left to right diagnol of slab. Shallow crack at bottom left of Buttress. Go straight up for 30m then trend right to belay on the overlap. 2) 50m, 4a. Traverse right past overlap then up and left to crack line. Follow crack line to belay. 3) 50m, 4b. Traverse up and right to crack overlap. Surmount crack then traverse up and right to scoop then crack line and small dyke. Belay on small pinnacle. 4) 60m, 4b. Follow dyke for 10m. Step right onto rightwards rising crack line, up flake into niche. Exit niche on right. Belay on large ledges below an overhang. 5) 45m, 4b. Step right round bulge, up small dyke for 2m. Step right round second bulge. Move up and right to base of undercut flake. Follow flake right and up to flat ledge. Move left to bealy by dyke. 6) 50m, 3. Follow dyke over overlap to flat ground andd then cruise up to glory.
Descent
Traverse right across a couple of gullies until a stone walled area is reached. Descend from far side of wall down towards the monastery.
- Grade
- 4c
- First ascent grade
- HS 4b, 4a, 4b, 4b, 4b, 3
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 305 m
- Pitches
- 6
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Brian Rodges, Ruth Murdie, Martin Cook, 8 Nov 2005
Topo
Three routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.
Route page1) 20m, 4c. The route starts as it means to go on. Thrutch and smear to flakes 2) 45m, 5a. Interesting and varied climbing, culminatinating in a fine belay platform. The final and clearly gruelling offwidth which gives the route its…. 3) 8m, 5b. Guess what? You guessed right. (small cams and a monster if you….
Route page1) 50m, 4b. General left to right diagnol of slab. Shallow crack at bottom left of Buttress. Go straight up for 30m then trend right to belay on the overlap. 2) 50m, 4a. Traverse right past overlap then up and left to crack line. Follow crack line to belay. 3) 50m, 4b. Traverse up and right to crack overlap. Surmount crack then traverse up and right to scoop then crack line and small dyke. Bela…
NW Spur
MapThree routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.
Route page1) 20m, 4c. The route starts as it means to go on. Thrutch and smear to flakes 2) 45m, 5a. Interesting and varied climbing, culminatinating in a fine belay platform. The final and clearly gruelling offwidth which gives the route its…. 3) 8m, 5b. Guess what? You guessed right. (small cams and a monster if you….
Route page1) 50m, 4b. General left to right diagnol of slab. Shallow crack at bottom left of Buttress. Go straight up for 30m then trend right to belay on the overlap. 2) 50m, 4a. Traverse right past overlap then up and left to crack line. Follow crack line to belay. 3) 50m, 4b. Traverse up and right to crack overlap. Surmount crack then traverse up and right to scoop then crack line and small dyke. Bela…
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