Jebel El Deir · Deir SW faces · trad
Sheikh dike indirect
5c1) 30m, 4a. Start at the cleft immediately left of the… of stepped basealt. Continue to a belay just before a steepening bulge. 2) 60m, 4b. Continue up the cleft until the dike can be rejoined at a steep hand crack. Follow the dike to a large ledge left under the head wall along the natural line, still follow the dike, up a final easy gully until you reach a suitable belay.
- Grade
- 5c
- First ascent grade
- HS 4a, 4b
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 90 m
- Pitches
- 2
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Luke Ward, David Flux, 14 Oct 2007
Topo
1) 30m, 4a. Start at the cleft immediately left of the… of stepped basealt. Continue to a belay just before a steepening bulge. 2) 60m, 4b. Continue up the cleft until the dike can be rejoined at a steep hand crack. Follow the dike to a large ledge left under the head wall along the natural line, still follow the dike, up a final easy gully until you reach a suitable belay.
Three routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.
Route page1) Climb the left hand end of the arch. Climb the slab for 6m to a bulge split by a crack. Climb this and continue up over the crack to a large block and nut belay on sloping ledge (HVS 5a, 5.9) 52m. 2) Scramble right into the gully and join route 5
Route pageNW Spur
Map1) 30m, 4a. Start at the cleft immediately left of the… of stepped basealt. Continue to a belay just before a steepening bulge. 2) 60m, 4b. Continue up the cleft until the dike can be rejoined at a steep hand crack. Follow the dike to a large ledge left under the head wall along the natural line, still follow the dike, up a final easy gully until you reach a suitable belay.
Three routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.
Route page1) Climb the left hand end of the arch. Climb the slab for 6m to a bulge split by a crack. Climb this and continue up over the crack to a large block and nut belay on sloping ledge (HVS 5a, 5.9) 52m. 2) Scramble right into the gully and join route 5
Route page
Comments
No comments yet. Climbed it? Share conditions, beta or the state of the bolts.