Jebel El Deir · Deir NW spur · trad

deir NW spur unnamed 2

6a

1) Climb the left hand end of the arch. Climb the slab for 6m to a bulge split by a crack. Climb this and continue up over the crack to a large block and nut belay on sloping ledge (HVS 5a, 5.9) 52m. 2) Scramble right into the gully and join route 5

Grade
6a
First ascent grade
HVS 5a, 5.9
Style
trad
Length
52 m
Pitches
2
Bolts
0
First ascent
Dave Lucas, Adam Ghani, 27 Mar 2004

Topo

Topo: NW Spur
2Sheikh dike indirecttrad · 90 m5c

1) 30m, 4a. Start at the cleft immediately left of the… of stepped basealt. Continue to a belay just before a steepening bulge. 2) 60m, 4b. Continue up the cleft until the dike can be rejoined at a steep hand crack. Follow the dike to a large ledge left under the head wall along the natural line, still follow the dike, up a final easy gully until you reach a suitable belay.

Route page
2Deir NW Btrad · 35 m7a+

Three routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.

Route page
2deir NW spur unnamed 2trad · 52 m6a

1) Climb the left hand end of the arch. Climb the slab for 6m to a bulge split by a crack. Climb this and continue up over the crack to a large block and nut belay on sloping ledge (HVS 5a, 5.9) 52m. 2) Scramble right into the gully and join route 5

NW Spur

Map
  1. 1) 30m, 4a. Start at the cleft immediately left of the… of stepped basealt. Continue to a belay just before a steepening bulge. 2) 60m, 4b. Continue up the cleft until the dike can be rejoined at a steep hand crack. Follow the dike to a large ledge left under the head wall along the natural line, still follow the dike, up a final easy gully until you reach a suitable belay.

    Route page
  2. Three routes climbed in October 2006 by Sutton Valence School Expedition. All climbed on top rope and not lead.

    Route page
  3. 1) Climb the left hand end of the arch. Climb the slab for 6m to a bulge split by a crack. Climb this and continue up over the crack to a large block and nut belay on sloping ledge (HVS 5a, 5.9) 52m. 2) Scramble right into the gully and join route 5

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