Wadi Abu Tuweita · Skull Buttress · trad
Songs of the Desert
6b+This is the first recorded route of Skull Buttress and climbs the R side of the skull as you look at it. 1) 20m, 5b. Great crack climbing reaches the skull’s L eye and a bomber thread. Tip toe rightwards up the ramp to a continuation crack Belay at its PP 2) 18m, 5b. A bold rightwards traverse across a slab to a hidden niche (rock 2 and a friend 0, tricky to place, or a friend 5 is better to protect the traverse.) Make tricky and devious moves R and up to the base of the crack system. The obvious approach is not the best approach on the crux. Belay at the natural thread a little higher. (Probably best to continue to top in a single push. 3) 25m, 5a. An absolute delight! The crack system leads, via the odd step L or R where it runs out, to the top. A great finish tom a great route
- Grade
- 6b+
- First ascent grade
- E1 5b, 5b, 5a
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 63 m
- Pitches
- 3
- Bolts
- 0
Topo
This is the first recorded route of Skull Buttress and climbs the R side of the skull as you look at it. 1) 20m, 5b. Great crack climbing reaches the skull’s L eye and a bomber thread. Tip toe rightwards up the ramp to a continuation crack Belay at its PP 2) 18m, 5b. A bold rightwards traverse across a slab to a hidden niche (rock 2 and a friend 0, tricky to place, or a friend 5 is better to pr…
The 3 buttresses around Jebel Dahab
Mapphoto by Martin Kocsis
This is the first recorded route of Skull Buttress and climbs the R side of the skull as you look at it. 1) 20m, 5b. Great crack climbing reaches the skull’s L eye and a bomber thread. Tip toe rightwards up the ramp to a continuation crack Belay at its PP 2) 18m, 5b. A bold rightwards traverse across a slab to a hidden niche (rock 2 and a friend 0, tricky to place, or a friend 5 is better to pr…
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