Wadi Abu Tuweita · Jebel without a cause · trad
Sense of Impending Doom
6b+ A21) 28m. 5a. Climb up stepped rock to crack. Climb the crack to a bulge then up and right to niche at start of traverse under cave. 2) 26m. 5a. Climb up and right under the cave. Up at the right end of cave. A chocked rock prevents you going under the main boulder through a cave. Bridge or back and foot up to cave main ledge. 3) 30m. 5b C1+. Aid the roof crack round the left hand side of the cave and continue along crack. (4 and 5 nuts and 0 and 0.5 cams). Possible loose block on exit from the cave. Start free as soon as you can. Climb up the crack and as the angle eases at the end of the crack traverse right to a corner and belay. 4) 15m. 4b. Climb up groove to ledge 5) 60m. 4a. Walk right along ledge and up line of least resistance. There is a possible great crack finish at the end of pitch 4), but it is brutal and is a skin ripper. You will see my blood below the crack. This route will be possible free and a perfect route.
Approach
Start directly below the main cave and main corner below it. Start up the line just left of the corner.
- Grade
- 6b+ A2
- First ascent grade
- E2 5a, 5a, 5b C1+, 4b, 4a
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 159 m
- Pitches
- 5
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Dave Lucas, David Flux, 17 Oct 2007
Topo
1) 28m. 5a. Climb up stepped rock to crack. Climb the crack to a bulge then up and right to niche at start of traverse under cave. 2) 26m. 5a. Climb up and right under the cave. Up at the right end of cave. A chocked rock prevents you going under the main boulder through a cave. Bridge or back and foot up to cave main ledge. 3) 30m. 5b C1+. Aid the roof crack round the left hand side of the cav…
Jebel Without a Cause
Mapphoto by Dave Lucas
1) 28m. 5a. Climb up stepped rock to crack. Climb the crack to a bulge then up and right to niche at start of traverse under cave. 2) 26m. 5a. Climb up and right under the cave. Up at the right end of cave. A chocked rock prevents you going under the main boulder through a cave. Bridge or back and foot up to cave main ledge. 3) 30m. 5b C1+. Aid the roof crack round the left hand side of the cav…
1) 28m. 5a. Climb up stepped rock to crack. Climb the crack to a bulge then up and right to niche at start of traverse under cave. 2) 26m. 5a. Climb up and right under the cave. Up at the right end of cave. A chocked rock prevents you going under the main boulder through a cave. Bridge or back and foot up to cave main ledge. 3) 30m. 5b C1+. Aid the roof crack round the left hand side of the cav…
The 3 buttresses around Jebel Dahab
Mapphoto by Martin Kocsis
1) 28m. 5a. Climb up stepped rock to crack. Climb the crack to a bulge then up and right to niche at start of traverse under cave. 2) 26m. 5a. Climb up and right under the cave. Up at the right end of cave. A chocked rock prevents you going under the main boulder through a cave. Bridge or back and foot up to cave main ledge. 3) 30m. 5b C1+. Aid the roof crack round the left hand side of the cav…
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