Wadi Abu Tuweita · Jebel without a cause · trad
Morning Glory
5b1) 15m. 4c. This is possibly 5a for those with tender fingers. A rude wake up call. Attack the flake/crack with laybacks and finger locks. The crack eases and widens and then a belay can be made. 2) 50m. 4b. Follow the rightwards trending ramp using pleasant varied jamming to a belay. 3) Continue up the increasingly rubble lined and widening ramp to a steep conclusion on friable rock. A messy finish to other wise a fun climb. Nb: The most obvious direct continuation from the pitch 1 belay ledge of Morning Glory. Attempted 17/10/07. Interesting technical climbing (HVS but goey) for 25m become rapidly more difficult and dangerous. The finger crack 1m right of the corner dries up at a bulge and the corner crack becomes very friable. A rightward traverse can be made to a chimney/cave but further upwards progress and a return to the corner crack (above the bulge)
Approach
Walk right under the face, upwards past a wire fence until a steep flake crack is reached that offers the most direct start to the rightwards trending ramp that splits the face.
- Grade
- 5b
- First ascent grade
- VS 4c, 4b, 4b
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 100 m
- Pitches
- 3
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Luke Ward, David Flux, Melissa Nesbitt, 16 Oct 2007
Comments
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