Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa NW Face · trad
Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct
7b A0Description: Only rock (stoppers) and friends up to #1 requered. On the crux pitch (4) protection (2 pitons and 2 bolts) left in place. Rock (except p7 and p8) excellent! Route very steep and _compatible_ in beauty and difficulty to some famous routes in the Dolomites. It is possible to join _Geissenpeter_ after 6 pitches by traverse left (VI-, poorly protected) and then up thin crack (VI+). (FROM IAC Wiki) Krzysztof Pankiewicz was a multiple winner of climbing competitions in Poland; his time in Caterina is little known in Poland. He was also a winter climber on Himalaya and alpinist (he made the first winter ascent of the Flip and Flam routes on Civeta). (Source: Piotr Sztaba)
Approach
Approach: The route starts at crack 20 right from _Geissenpeter_ and 20m left from _Papa GPI_.
- Grade
- 7b A0
- First ascent grade
- VII+, A0 roof VIII
- Style
- trad
- Pitches
- 10
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Krysztof Pankiewicz, Doron Erel, 30 Oct 1987
Topo
After the second VI+, take right traverse on obvious ledge on the slab at the exit crack of pitch 4. Traverse right (V+) around corner to an overhanging groove (VI). Beautiful and very exposed.
Route pageDescription: Only rock (stoppers) and friends up to #1 requered. On the crux pitch (4) protection (2 pitons and 2 bolts) left in place. Rock (except p7 and p8) excellent! Route very steep and _compatible_ in beauty and difficulty to some famous routes in the Dolomites. It is possible to join _Geissenpeter_ after 6 pitches by traverse left (VI-, poorly protected) and then up thin crack (VI+). (FROM…
Older Topo of NW Face
MapFrom israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)
After the second VI+, take right traverse on obvious ledge on the slab at the exit crack of pitch 4. Traverse right (V+) around corner to an overhanging groove (VI). Beautiful and very exposed.
Route pageDescription: Only rock (stoppers) and friends up to #1 requered. On the crux pitch (4) protection (2 pitons and 2 bolts) left in place. Rock (except p7 and p8) excellent! Route very steep and _compatible_ in beauty and difficulty to some famous routes in the Dolomites. It is possible to join _Geissenpeter_ after 6 pitches by traverse left (VI-, poorly protected) and then up thin crack (VI+). (FROM…
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