Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa NW Face · trad
Scala del Cielo
5aA long, easy route to the highest peak of Safsafa with two short but fun keys :)) Total climbing time from the beginning of the route is 8 hours. Approximate difficulty 3B. P1-P8. On simple (III) and medium-difficulty rocks (IV) of the wide northern ridge, reach the top of the first peak. The comb is a series of short walls and shelves. You have to walk on the shelves left and right and look for acceptable passages up. Periodically come across short, but rather difficult sections. Lots of convenient station locations. From the beginning of the route to the first peak 4 hours 30 minutes, approximately 300 meters. P9. Descend from the top of the first peak a little to the left onto a ledge. On the [slab] there is a descent station on two hooks interlocked with a sling with a trigger ring. Dylfer 15 meters per saddle on the ridge. P10. 15 meters V. From the center of the saddle straight up 3 meters, then to the left up under the overhang. Go around the overhang on the left and go to the ledge. Insurance with small nuts and at the top with friends. An old piton/beak is hammered under the overhang. R11. 15 meters V. From the ledge go straight up the overhang through the narrow short chimney and go to the next ledge. R12. 200 meters II. Up the vegetable gardens to the top. [Misha]
Approach
the route is well visible from the village. From the Moonland camp, through a small pass, enter the wadi Shrej gorge and, along large scree and gentle slabs, approach the center of the wide northern ridge of the southwestern peak of Safsafa. 30 minutes from Moonland Camp. [Misha]
Descent
From the top, go down a little back to the platform with two wooden poles and a fire pit. From here down to the north-north-east on foot to the saddle. Further along the gorge to the right to the southeast down to a small monastery. From the monastery to the right to the south climb the pass and further down into the gorge of wadi Shrej. Continue to the right along the path to the village. The total descent time is two and a half hours. [Misha] From the monastery/chapel the descent is the same as all the other routes over the saddle into Shrej
- Grade
- 5a
- First ascent grade
- IV
- Style
- trad
- Pitches
- 18
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Daniele Chiappa, Andrea Anati, 21 Sep 1978
Topo
A long, easy route to the highest peak of Safsafa with two short but fun keys :)) Total climbing time from the beginning of the route is 8 hours. Approximate difficulty 3B. P1-P8. On simple (III) and medium-difficulty rocks (IV) of the wide northern ridge, reach the top of the first peak. The comb is a series of short walls and shelves. You have to walk on the shelves left and right and look for…
NW Face
MapA long, easy route to the highest peak of Safsafa with two short but fun keys :)) Total climbing time from the beginning of the route is 8 hours. Approximate difficulty 3B. P1-P8. On simple (III) and medium-difficulty rocks (IV) of the wide northern ridge, reach the top of the first peak. The comb is a series of short walls and shelves. You have to walk on the shelves left and right and look for…
A long, easy route to the highest peak of Safsafa with two short but fun keys :)) Total climbing time from the beginning of the route is 8 hours. Approximate difficulty 3B. P1-P8. On simple (III) and medium-difficulty rocks (IV) of the wide northern ridge, reach the top of the first peak. The comb is a series of short walls and shelves. You have to walk on the shelves left and right and look for…
Older Topo of NW Face
MapFrom israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)
A long, easy route to the highest peak of Safsafa with two short but fun keys :)) Total climbing time from the beginning of the route is 8 hours. Approximate difficulty 3B. P1-P8. On simple (III) and medium-difficulty rocks (IV) of the wide northern ridge, reach the top of the first peak. The comb is a series of short walls and shelves. You have to walk on the shelves left and right and look for…
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