Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa NE Face · trad

Savir, Mitporer Bekhalut

6a+

Pitch1: Start up broken rock (10m) and curve right on brown dyke, to belay on hole in the rock(5.8)(unprotected). Pitch2: Go straight up (5.10) - unprotected on bad rock, or traverse 15m right and back left(5.6) and the up crack. Pitch3: Follow the crack (5.9) 40m. Pitch4: Straight up (5.7) 40m. Pitch5: Continue up (5.6) 40m. Pitch6: Up a crack - 10m (5.9) and out right under a big block, 40m. Pitch7: Cut back left and up to summit (5.5) 40m.

Approach

Walk up ridge on left of main gully on left side of North Face, above junction of road to monastery. Walk up ~200m vertical, entering gully about 200 vertical meters up. At big junction with gully from right thorny tree/bush, head right some 20m and scramble up 20m to start of climb.

Grade
6a+
First ascent grade
VI, 5.9
Style
trad
Pitches
7
Bolts
0
First ascent
Daniel Peikes, Danny Wolfstein, 1989

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