Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa NW Face · trad

Elio’s Route

5c A1

Climbed the wall on the left (V A1). Climbed the same crack on the right (V+) then up small overhand to a stance on the right (V), up diagonally to the right for two pitches (IV+) to a stance on smooth slabs facing west from here again left for 2 or 3 pitches to the top (IV - IV+)

Approach

Walk up 200m in the gully between 2nd and 3rd Safsafa (walking 1 degree) start at the bottom of a vertical wall left of a characteristic tower Elio's.

Grade
5c A1
First ascent grade
V, A1
Style
trad
Length
300 m
Pitches
7
Bolts
0
First ascent
Elio Scarabelly, Victor Kaftal, Oct 1977

Topo

Topo: NW Face
6.1Elio’s Routetrad · 300 m5c A1

Climbed the wall on the left (V A1). Climbed the same crack on the right (V+) then up small overhand to a stance on the right (V), up diagonally to the right for two pitches (IV+) to a stance on smooth slabs facing west from here again left for 2 or 3 pitches to the top (IV - IV+)

NW Face

Map
  1. Climbed the wall on the left (V A1). Climbed the same crack on the right (V+) then up small overhand to a stance on the right (V), up diagonally to the right for two pitches (IV+) to a stance on smooth slabs facing west from here again left for 2 or 3 pitches to the top (IV - IV+)

Topo: Older Topo of NW Face
6.1Elio’s Routetrad · 300 m5c A1

Climbed the wall on the left (V A1). Climbed the same crack on the right (V+) then up small overhand to a stance on the right (V), up diagonally to the right for two pitches (IV+) to a stance on smooth slabs facing west from here again left for 2 or 3 pitches to the top (IV - IV+)

Older Topo of NW Face

Map

From israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)

  1. Climbed the wall on the left (V A1). Climbed the same crack on the right (V+) then up small overhand to a stance on the right (V), up diagonally to the right for two pitches (IV+) to a stance on smooth slabs facing west from here again left for 2 or 3 pitches to the top (IV - IV+)

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