Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa NW Face · trad
Darkness at Noon
5cThe route follows Elio's route for first 2 pitches. Description: 1st ascent followed Mickey's variation - start from left side of gully, traverse right and up crack for 10m(5.7) and then to top of crack (5.8) in wide rotten crack level with head of large tower on right. From here traverse left and up for 15m to base of obvious hand jam crack. Follow this on beautiful rock (except for hollow flake on 4th pitch) for 2 pitches (5.9) to head of crack. Traverse right 3m in wider crack/chimney and up slabs, then thru wind blown holes to summit (full 45m, 5.8)
Descent
Descent: from summit descend SE on slabs, then 15m’s rappel to gully on W (can perhaps be omitted) and walk down to valley
- Grade
- 5c
- First ascent grade
- V, 5.9-
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 200 m
- Pitches
- 5
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Danny Wolfstein, Yaron Bashen, 19 Oct 1984
Topo
The route follows Elio's route for first 2 pitches. Description: 1st ascent followed Mickey's variation - start from left side of gully, traverse right and up crack for 10m(5.7) and then to top of crack (5.8) in wide rotten crack level with head of large tower on right. From here traverse left and up for 15m to base of obvious hand jam crack. Follow this on beautiful rock (except for hollow flake…
NW Face
MapThe route follows Elio's route for first 2 pitches. Description: 1st ascent followed Mickey's variation - start from left side of gully, traverse right and up crack for 10m(5.7) and then to top of crack (5.8) in wide rotten crack level with head of large tower on right. From here traverse left and up for 15m to base of obvious hand jam crack. Follow this on beautiful rock (except for hollow flake…
The route follows Elio's route for first 2 pitches. Description: 1st ascent followed Mickey's variation - start from left side of gully, traverse right and up crack for 10m(5.7) and then to top of crack (5.8) in wide rotten crack level with head of large tower on right. From here traverse left and up for 15m to base of obvious hand jam crack. Follow this on beautiful rock (except for hollow flake…
Older Topo of NW Face
MapFrom israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)
The route follows Elio's route for first 2 pitches. Description: 1st ascent followed Mickey's variation - start from left side of gully, traverse right and up crack for 10m(5.7) and then to top of crack (5.8) in wide rotten crack level with head of large tower on right. From here traverse left and up for 15m to base of obvious hand jam crack. Follow this on beautiful rock (except for hollow flake…
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