Jebel Safsafa · Safsafa NW Face · trad
Black Dyke
5bVariation of "Mask": 2 pitches right (III-IV) till crack. 2 pitches follow the crack towards left till large lodge under vertical band halfway up the mask. One short AID pitch up a slab (3 pitons) to concave stance, then exit right up thin crack on bad rock (2 pitons, 5 chokes) (V- A1), one pitch traversing up left (IV), 3 pitches following crack directly up leaving mask on the left and reaching wall of the main mountain (III-IV), 2 pitches up a beautiful black chimney of smooth rock, negative dike (IV-IV+). Up the chimney behind medium chockstone (IV), get out on the right (very exposed V-) and up to stance. 2 pitches following the chimney till it ends under a steep wall (III+). 2 pitches in a gully on the right till a weak point in the wall and up till the summit rocks (III).
- Grade
- 5b
- First ascent grade
- V-, A1
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 700 m
- Pitches
- 18
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Victor Kaftal, Bruce Devens, 9 Apr 1977
Topo
Variation of "Mask": 2 pitches right (III-IV) till crack. 2 pitches follow the crack towards left till large lodge under vertical band halfway up the mask. One short AID pitch up a slab (3 pitons) to concave stance, then exit right up thin crack on bad rock (2 pitons, 5 chokes) (V- A1), one pitch traversing up left (IV), 3 pitches following crack directly up leaving mask on the left and reaching w…
NW Face
MapVariation of "Mask": 2 pitches right (III-IV) till crack. 2 pitches follow the crack towards left till large lodge under vertical band halfway up the mask. One short AID pitch up a slab (3 pitons) to concave stance, then exit right up thin crack on bad rock (2 pitons, 5 chokes) (V- A1), one pitch traversing up left (IV), 3 pitches following crack directly up leaving mask on the left and reaching w…
Variation of "Mask": 2 pitches right (III-IV) till crack. 2 pitches follow the crack towards left till large lodge under vertical band halfway up the mask. One short AID pitch up a slab (3 pitons) to concave stance, then exit right up thin crack on bad rock (2 pitons, 5 chokes) (V- A1), one pitch traversing up left (IV), 3 pitches following crack directly up leaving mask on the left and reaching w…
Older Topo of NW Face
MapFrom israeli wiki: N19:Scala del Cielo; N8:Geissenpeter; N18:Elio’s Route; N5:Black Dyke; N2:The Skull; N7:Com kal; N6:The Mask; N4:Klostersporn; N14:Via del Papa Giovanni Paolo 1; N20:Saturday Night Fever; N11:Warsaw - Tel Aviv Direct; N16:Via del Papa Oct'87 variation; N12:Non-Stop (Warsaw’s variation); N15:Grand Hand Traverse (Papa's Variation); N3:Arba VaKhetzi; N13:Bonch; N1:NE Ridge of Safsafa; N17:Darkness at Noon; N10:Why not?; N9:Geissenpeter (variation)
Variation of "Mask": 2 pitches right (III-IV) till crack. 2 pitches follow the crack towards left till large lodge under vertical band halfway up the mask. One short AID pitch up a slab (3 pitons) to concave stance, then exit right up thin crack on bad rock (2 pitons, 5 chokes) (V- A1), one pitch traversing up left (IV), 3 pitches following crack directly up leaving mask on the left and reaching w…
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