Jebel Rabba · Rabba East Face · trad
Amico Perduto Direct
5cOne of the best routes in the area, sustained on good rock. Climb up an easy crack chimney (20m, 4) to start of a pair of hand-cracks/corner. Follow this 20m(V+) till belay niche on right. Return to corner and follow it as it. slants left till its junction with the roof (6) (original ascent went left on wall with pendulum move). Exit right on jugs thru overhand (1m out, 7), with good protection. Continue above roof 5m(5) to good stance. Climb up corner right (10m, V+) to easy traverse left (10m, 2), back to main crack system and up this (30m, VI-) to stance. Climb on up and left (15m, V+) to vertical off width (10m, VII-) and belay in cave. Climb out thru back cave (chimney, 4) and then in easy off width (15m, 5) to stance. Continue easily to top for 0.5 pitches.
Approach
The climb starts from the top of the black dyke, some meters right of the beginning of the "Guano chimney".
- Grade
- 5c
- First ascent grade
- VII-
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 8 m
- Pitches
- 8
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Danny Wolfstein, Nir Yarkoni, 28 Apr 1985
Topo
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Description of Amico Perduto direct shines light on the original line: Amico Perduto Direct: One of the best routes in the area, sustained on good rock. Climb up an easy crack chimney (20m, 4) to start of a pair of hand-cracks/corner. Follow this 20m(V+) till belay niche on right. Return to corner and follow it as it. slants left till its junction with the roof (6) (original ascent went left on wa…
Route pageOne of the best routes in the area, sustained on good rock. Climb up an easy crack chimney (20m, 4) to start of a pair of hand-cracks/corner. Follow this 20m(V+) till belay niche on right. Return to corner and follow it as it. slants left till its junction with the roof (6) (original ascent went left on wall with pendulum move). Exit right on jugs thru overhand (1m out, 7), with good protection. C…
NE Face
MapDescription of Amico Perduto direct shines light on the original line: Amico Perduto Direct: One of the best routes in the area, sustained on good rock. Climb up an easy crack chimney (20m, 4) to start of a pair of hand-cracks/corner. Follow this 20m(V+) till belay niche on right. Return to corner and follow it as it. slants left till its junction with the roof (6) (original ascent went left on wa…
Route pageOne of the best routes in the area, sustained on good rock. Climb up an easy crack chimney (20m, 4) to start of a pair of hand-cracks/corner. Follow this 20m(V+) till belay niche on right. Return to corner and follow it as it. slants left till its junction with the roof (6) (original ascent went left on wall with pendulum move). Exit right on jugs thru overhand (1m out, 7), with good protection. C…
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