Jebel Naja · Naja West Face · trad

The sheikh

7a+ A1/ 8b

Continuation of "main event", (The first two pitches of this climb were originally done by Dave Lucas and he encouraged us to try to finish the route. We spent one afternoon climbing the first two pitches and sussing out the route. Micah and Kyle Elmquist worked P3 for two more days, hoping it would go free, but decided bolts would be necessary. They pendulumed left and free-climbed a 5.12 finger crack to get higher, then pendulumed back right above the P3 and placed 3 bolts by hand on rappel. P3 is rated at 5.13 but was not freed; it was aided on the first ascent of The Sheikh.) P1. 5.11 flared hands, 50m P2. 5.11 OW to chimney to fingers, 55m P3. C1, 3 bolts plus microcams and tiny steel nuts, 30m P4. 5.10 OW and fists, 40m P5. 5.9 chimney, 30m P6 5.8 stem, 30m P7 5.10 finger lieback,40m P8 5.10 dihedral OW,40m P9 5.10 thin fingers on sloping ledge, 40m P10 5.7 sketchy blocks, 60m 300-foot scramble to summit (This is a fantastic climb with solid 5.10 and 5.11 crack climbing. )

Grade
7a+ A1/ 8b
First ascent grade
5.11 C1/ 5.13
Style
trad
Length
400 m
Pitches
10
Bolts
0
First ascent
Mark Jenkins, Micah Rush, Kyle Elmquist, Nov 2018

Topo

Topo: Naja West Face
5The sheikhtrad · 400 m7a+ A1/ 8b

Continuation of "main event", (The first two pitches of this climb were originally done by Dave Lucas and he encouraged us to try to finish the route. We spent one afternoon climbing the first two pitches and sussing out the route. Micah and Kyle Elmquist worked P3 for two more days, hoping it would go free, but decided bolts would be necessary. They pendulumed left and free-climbed a 5.12 finger…

5The main eventtrad · 90 m6c+

Up fine chimney III culminating with easy overhang IV. Proceed on easy rock then climb the dyke to flared chimney (IV+), then slabs to top. Four pitches, can be done in three. See right loop on Topo on opposite page(in logbook)

Route page

Naja West Face

Map
  1. Continuation of "main event", (The first two pitches of this climb were originally done by Dave Lucas and he encouraged us to try to finish the route. We spent one afternoon climbing the first two pitches and sussing out the route. Micah and Kyle Elmquist worked P3 for two more days, hoping it would go free, but decided bolts would be necessary. They pendulumed left and free-climbed a 5.12 finger…

  2. Up fine chimney III culminating with easy overhang IV. Proceed on easy rock then climb the dyke to flared chimney (IV+), then slabs to top. Four pitches, can be done in three. See right loop on Topo on opposite page(in logbook)

    Route page

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