Jebel Musa · Musa East face · trad

Four Plus

6a

Follow wide chimney/gully for 2 pitches trending L (5.7) to beginning of offwidth crack. Climb this for 40m tilll end of crack and large ledge on L. From that ledge layback 15m (5.9) up crack and then R onto face to top. Protection: normal rack + #4cams / hexes, good rock

Approach

When descending the camel path from J. Musa, walk down till first bend in path below E face (100m from junction with path descending the stairs). From bend continue level with path on easy ground for 50m to first wide crack splitting the face to the top (50m R of "Last Chance")

Descent

Walk up a bit and then traverse R to stairs descending from J. Musa summit.

Grade
6a
First ascent grade
V+, 5.9
Style
trad
Length
130 m
Pitches
4
Bolts
0
First ascent
Danny Wolfstein, Yaron Bashan, Alon Parnes, Ilan Pardo, Bella Funkel, 21 Oct 1984

Topo

Topo: East Face
2Four Plustrad · 130 m6a

Follow wide chimney/gully for 2 pitches trending L (5.7) to beginning of offwidth crack. Climb this for 40m tilll end of crack and large ledge on L. From that ledge layback 15m (5.9) up crack and then R onto face to top. Protection: normal rack + #4cams / hexes, good rock

East Face

Map
  1. Follow wide chimney/gully for 2 pitches trending L (5.7) to beginning of offwidth crack. Climb this for 40m tilll end of crack and large ledge on L. From that ledge layback 15m (5.9) up crack and then R onto face to top. Protection: normal rack + #4cams / hexes, good rock

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All routes at Jebel Musa