Jebel El Deir · Deir NW spur · trad

deir NW spur unnamed 5

6b+

1) Start at the foot of an overhang split by a crack. Climb this (cru10) and continue up the flake to an overhang. Traverse this to the left and up its end (corner) to a ledge. Climb the slab above the ledge past a good pocket to a crack and access the main gully (E1 5b, 5.10a) 35m 2) Scramble up the gully 10m to a boulder chocked corner. 3) The main gully continues leftwards and a crack splits right. Climb this for 20m and traverse left to a belay under an overhang. (5a, 5.9) 28m 4) Climb crack and onto the slabs with easy climbing leading to a ledge. (4c, 5.8) 35m

Grade
6b+
First ascent grade
E1 5b, -, 5a, 4c
Style
trad
Length
108 m
Pitches
4
Bolts
0
First ascent
Dave Lucas, Melissa Nesbitt, 25 Mar 2004

Topo

Topo: NW Spur
5deir NW spur unnamed 5trad · 108 m6b+

1) Start at the foot of an overhang split by a crack. Climb this (cru10) and continue up the flake to an overhang. Traverse this to the left and up its end (corner) to a ledge. Climb the slab above the ledge past a good pocket to a crack and access the main gully (E1 5b, 5.10a) 35m 2) Scramble up the gully 10m to a boulder chocked corner. 3) The main gully continues leftwards and a crack splits ri…

NW Spur

Map
  1. 1) Start at the foot of an overhang split by a crack. Climb this (cru10) and continue up the flake to an overhang. Traverse this to the left and up its end (corner) to a ledge. Climb the slab above the ledge past a good pocket to a crack and access the main gully (E1 5b, 5.10a) 35m 2) Scramble up the gully 10m to a boulder chocked corner. 3) The main gully continues leftwards and a crack splits ri…

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