Jebel Batta · Batta NE face · trad
Jethro Tull
6aP1. 60m. V, VI-, IV. On the wide fireplace on the right will rise to the shelf. 10 meters V. The first 5 meters without points. There is a hook on the shelf. From it to the right up the crack, through another hook. 10 meters VI-. Further to the station along the couloir 40 meters IV. Station in on the ledge in the couloir on the hook and its points. P2. 60m. V, IV. From the station along the continuation of the couloir 10 meters V, then IV. The station is on a large shelf at the flattening. P3. 150 - 200 meters walk to the top. [Misha] Original description : Start from base of central big gully, scramble (possible unroped - ?) to reach big boulder, and then to right branch of big gully. 3 full pitches, chimney climbing, occasionally slab climbing inside chimney. Good rock. Protected by pitons all way.
Approach
the route passes along the right branch of a huge fireplace in the center of the mountain, and is clearly visible from the road. From the asphalt road to the beginning of the route 5 - 10 minutes. From the village of Santa Caterina 40 minutes. Enter a huge rift and climb a huge stone along a pile of stones piled against the right wall. The route starts from a large ledge above a stone.[Misha] Original: The route is up big gully/chimney by it’s right branch
Descent
main descent
- Grade
- 6a
- First ascent grade
- 5.9+, VI-
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 3 m
- Pitches
- 3
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Yoav Nir, Daniel Peikes, 1987, 12 Oct 1987
Topo
P1: Climb up chockstone (at L) on R side. Continue 7m (easy III+) to belay. P2(40m, 4): Climb up L side of gully in shallow chimney till chockstone. Bridge out to pass it and continue up over grown passage about 15m. Belay among big visible boulders. P3 Move R onto slabs then 3-4m till large ledge. Then continue in R corner till large chockstone. Pass on L and continue over grown passage 5m. Belay…
Route pageP1. 60m. V, VI-, IV. On the wide fireplace on the right will rise to the shelf. 10 meters V. The first 5 meters without points. There is a hook on the shelf. From it to the right up the crack, through another hook. 10 meters VI-. Further to the station along the couloir 40 meters IV. Station in on the ledge in the couloir on the hook and its points. P2. 60m. V, IV. From the station along the…
NE Face
MapP1: Climb up chockstone (at L) on R side. Continue 7m (easy III+) to belay. P2(40m, 4): Climb up L side of gully in shallow chimney till chockstone. Bridge out to pass it and continue up over grown passage about 15m. Belay among big visible boulders. P3 Move R onto slabs then 3-4m till large ledge. Then continue in R corner till large chockstone. Pass on L and continue over grown passage 5m. Belay…
Route pageP1. 60m. V, VI-, IV. On the wide fireplace on the right will rise to the shelf. 10 meters V. The first 5 meters without points. There is a hook on the shelf. From it to the right up the crack, through another hook. 10 meters VI-. Further to the station along the couloir 40 meters IV. Station in on the ledge in the couloir on the hook and its points. P2. 60m. V, IV. From the station along the…
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