Jebel Banat · Banat NW Face · trad

Nord Verschneidung

6a A1

Start 20m left of short chimney with giant chockstone. 3 pitches trending right over slabs( 4), then 1 pitch traversing right (2) to the beginning of a crack that goes up diagonal left. 3 Pitches up inside this one until start of steep dihedral. 1 pitch up through this dihedral (V, A1). From belay roughly 7m up, traverse L to sloping platform, 3m above step up and left to roomy belay (V+). Through the dihedral starting here 25m up until Belay(5). Now trending left up towards wide ledge, traverse roughly 25m to R and up straight over roughly 4m high step to next ledge (4). From here over less steep ledges and slabs up to summit. Wall height around 300m, Rock mostly good, lower part mostly secured with mobile camming devices, pitons have been left in place, time roughly 6.5hrs

Grade
6a A1
First ascent grade
V+, A1
Style
trad
Length
300 m
Pitches
11
Bolts
0
First ascent
Peter Frei, Gadi, Yutty, Oct 1978

Topo

Topo: NW Face
1Banana Breadtrad · 477 m6c+

1) 5a. 55m Start by tree and corner ramp line to groove and ledge. 2) 5b. 55m Corner chimney to step right to long flakes to dykes belay. 3) 5c. 50m flakes groove to corner follow right to ledge. 4) 5a. 50m Of width corner to chimney over blocks to ledge on left. 5) 4c. 55m Gully and face crack to ledge. 6) 4c 45m. Left on ledge to crack/corner up to ledge. 7) 5a. 38m right across ledges to corner…

Route page
1Nord Verschneidungtrad · 300 m6a A1

Start 20m left of short chimney with giant chockstone. 3 pitches trending right over slabs( 4), then 1 pitch traversing right (2) to the beginning of a crack that goes up diagonal left. 3 Pitches up inside this one until start of steep dihedral. 1 pitch up through this dihedral (V, A1). From belay roughly 7m up, traverse L to sloping platform, 3m above step up and left to roomy belay (V+). Throug…

NW Face

Map
  1. 1) 5a. 55m Start by tree and corner ramp line to groove and ledge. 2) 5b. 55m Corner chimney to step right to long flakes to dykes belay. 3) 5c. 50m flakes groove to corner follow right to ledge. 4) 5a. 50m Of width corner to chimney over blocks to ledge on left. 5) 4c. 55m Gully and face crack to ledge. 6) 4c 45m. Left on ledge to crack/corner up to ledge. 7) 5a. 38m right across ledges to corner…

    Route page
  2. Start 20m left of short chimney with giant chockstone. 3 pitches trending right over slabs( 4), then 1 pitch traversing right (2) to the beginning of a crack that goes up diagonal left. 3 Pitches up inside this one until start of steep dihedral. 1 pitch up through this dihedral (V, A1). From belay roughly 7m up, traverse L to sloping platform, 3m above step up and left to roomy belay (V+). Throug…

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