Farsh Abu Mahshour · Mahshour West Face · trad
The west face route
4cAn entertaining meandering line. It is worth looking at the face straight on in the morning light to identify key features before stating up. 1) 5m. Gain the ledge at the foot of the groove. 2) 50m, 4b. A lovely pitch up the groove. 3) 90m, 4. Follow the terrace easily leftwards, past a large boulder and across the foot of the huge chimney line to blocks below the end of the arching fault in the centre of the face. 4) 30m, 4a. Gain the arch in a zig-zag using sharp edged cracks. 5) 60m, 4a. (can be split). The arch. An akward move to start then easier to the foot of a well defined chimney groove. 6) 30m, 4a. Up the chimney groove to a break in the right wall where a prominent dyke cuts across the face. 7) 85m at least. A weird pitch following the dyke rightwards above the prominent overhang. The standard is easy and moderate, but very porely protected. The belay at the end is hard to find and may result in being poor.
Approach
Start at a prominent groove/crack which leads up to a terrace line below and right of the chimney system which breaks the right hand side of the face.
- Grade
- 4c
- First ascent grade
- HS 4b
- Style
- trad
- Length
- 350 m
- Pitches
- 7
- Bolts
- 0
- First ascent
- Dave Lucas, Melissa Nesbitt, 2009
Topo
a good pitch, but not well protected in the first half. Belay 10m before the end of the normal pitch 5) 18 21) 50m. Make a balancy step up onto a gradually ascending line of weakness. Follow the line rightwards, dropping down slightly to cross small groove, and a little later climbing up a meter or two before traversing to blocks below the righthand end of the overhang. 22) 50m. Scramble easily up…
Route pageAn entertaining meandering line. It is worth looking at the face straight on in the morning light to identify key features before stating up. 1) 5m. Gain the ledge at the foot of the groove. 2) 50m, 4b. A lovely pitch up the groove. 3) 90m, 4. Follow the terrace easily leftwards, past a large boulder and across the foot of the huge chimney line to blocks below the end of the arching fault in th…
Jebel Abu Mahshour West Face
Mapa good pitch, but not well protected in the first half. Belay 10m before the end of the normal pitch 5) 18 21) 50m. Make a balancy step up onto a gradually ascending line of weakness. Follow the line rightwards, dropping down slightly to cross small groove, and a little later climbing up a meter or two before traversing to blocks below the righthand end of the overhang. 22) 50m. Scramble easily up…
Route pageAn entertaining meandering line. It is worth looking at the face straight on in the morning light to identify key features before stating up. 1) 5m. Gain the ledge at the foot of the groove. 2) 50m, 4b. A lovely pitch up the groove. 3) 90m, 4. Follow the terrace easily leftwards, past a large boulder and across the foot of the huge chimney line to blocks below the end of the arching fault in th…
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