Farsh Abu Mahshour · Mahshour East face · trad

Sharouk El Shams

6a

1) Vs 4b, 25m. Climb the left side of the block to reach slanting off-width. Climb this to a good ledge. 2) Severe, 40m. Climb the smooth groove above to easy ground. Follow this to belay below the fork in the groove. 23 3) HVS 4c 30m. Move up the upper groove to below 2 black lines. Smear up the left one boldly to the ledge right of the big block. 4) V. Diff 30m. Up the groove left as per Darb Matawi but belay 10m past it before obvious off-width crack. 5) HVS 5a, (climbed before on another route) climb the groove right of the off-width with difficulty to a ledge belay 20m above. 6) V. Diff 30m. Follow the ramp leftwards and then up the slab above to belay below a short wall. 7) VS 4b, 40m. Move right then up and back left boldly across slabs until overlooking the big chimney. Climb the right arête until a step into the chimney which provides a belay stance. 8) VS 4b, 20m. Follow the chimney until it steepens then hand traverse a flake on the left wall to exit onto a ledge. 9) Scramble to the top.

Grade
6a
First ascent grade
HVS 5a
Style
trad
Length
240 m
Pitches
9
Bolts
0
First ascent
Geoff Hornby, Susie Sammut, 12 Dec 2007

Topo

Topo: J. Abu Mahshour East Face4567
7Sharouk El Shamstrad · 240 m6a

1) Vs 4b, 25m. Climb the left side of the block to reach slanting off-width. Climb this to a good ledge. 2) Severe, 40m. Climb the smooth groove above to easy ground. Follow this to belay below the fork in the groove. 23 3) HVS 4c 30m. Move up the upper groove to below 2 black lines. Smear up the left one boldly to the ledge right of the big block. 4) V. Diff 30m. Up the groove left as per Darb…

J. Abu Mahshour East Face

Map

photo by Wolfgang Vogl

  1. 1) Vs 4b, 25m. Climb the left side of the block to reach slanting off-width. Climb this to a good ledge. 2) Severe, 40m. Climb the smooth groove above to easy ground. Follow this to belay below the fork in the groove. 23 3) HVS 4c 30m. Move up the upper groove to below 2 black lines. Smear up the left one boldly to the ledge right of the big block. 4) V. Diff 30m. Up the groove left as per Darb…

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