Bilhana Wilshifa

Start by scrambling up blocks and ledges to a good ledge. Just to the left of a slanting ramp across the lower middle of the wall. 1) 35m, HVS 4c, Climb the slabby groove direct up to the ramp and an excellent ledge belay. 2) 35m, VS 5a, Follow the ramp with difficulty past a short sharp off-width. 3) 30m, VS 4b. Follow the ramp past one friction slabby step. Belay below the start of the basalt dyke. 4) 40m, S. Pull over the short wall then climb the slab to the left edge of the ledge. Pull over this and traverse right to belay next to the dyke. 5) 40m, V.Diff. Follow the dyke for 25m then climb the groove above for 15m to belay at an old peg(!) A second peg is visible above. 6) 40m, VS 4b. Move up and right boldly on slabs crossing 2 other grooves to belay on the big ledge to the right. 7) 50m, V.Diff. Pull over the bulge above and then climb the slab groove to easy ground. Straight variation by Dave Lucas & Martin Kocsis